"The River," as San Franciscans call it,
is a more rustic summer retreat than
other more popular gay-resort
destinations. The emphasis at the
Russian River is on the great outdoors,
with river beaches and towering redwoods
as the primary attraction. But the area
is close to the heart of California's
urbane and stylish wine country, which
increases its appeal for those who are
less at ease with nature.
Just as life on Fire Island is defined
by the New Yorkers who use it as a
regular weekend escape, life on the
river is defined by the San Franciscans,
who overwhelmingly dominate the summer
population here. Unlike most other
summer destinations, San Franciscans
come here to escape the foggy, chilly
weather of the city and to bask in the
warming Sonoma sun.
Although it's never fair to generalize,
compared to other resorts the crowds at
the Russian River tend to be more
laid-back, relaxed and not as intent on
impressing one another. It's an easy,
comfortable retreat spot that offers
just the right mix of country charm to
travelers who have spent a few days in
San Francisco's high-energy gay
neighborhoods.
For maximum crowds the best time to
visit the area is during the big summer
holidays or during the numerous,
well-attended festival weekends.
Highlights include the Sonoma
County Lesbian and Gay Pride Parade and
Celebration (www.sonomapride.com)
and the Russian River Women's
Weekend (russianriverwomensweekend.org/),
a riotous weekend among the redwoods
with pool parties, speed dating, Truth
or Dare, a kissing booth, and kayaking.
Women also have a slew of events to
choose from courtesy of River Gals (www.rivergals.com)
and men of the furry-friendly variety
flock to the annual Lazy Bear
Weekend (www.lazybearweekend.com).
The Russian River is an easy 90-minute
drive north of San Francisco. The most
direct route is to take Highway 101
North to the River Road exit and then go
west for approximately 18 miles to the
Russian River towns of Rio Nido,
Guerneville and Monte Rio. If you choose
to fly, the closest airports are Sonoma
County, Oakland and San Francisco.
STAY
(All accommodations are in Guerneville
unless noted) Russian River
Resort or "Triple R" (16390
Fourth St; 707-869-0691 or 800-417-3767;
www.russianriverresort.com; from $65) is
by far the most popular lodging option,
with 24 rooms featuring private baths
and color TV. The property, which
received a major facelift in 2006,
features a heated pool, hot tub and the
Triple R Bar and Grill
restaurant, as well as the
Promenade Pool Bar and BBQ. The
Triple R hosts special events during the
big weekends and retreats throughout the
summer. Live comedy on Saturdays,
karaoke on Thursdays, Fridays, Saturdays
and Sundays, and a piano bar on weekends
(in the upper dining room) liven up the
otherwise casual and relaxed property.
The clientele is mostly gay men.
Dawn Ranch Lodge (16467
River Rd; 707-869-0656 or 800-734-3371;
www.dawnranch.com; from $149), offers 55
cottages and cabins on more than 15
acres of beautiful, wooded grounds. In
addition to a heated pool, amenities
include a bar, TV lounge, private beach,
full-service gym, and an elegant
restaurant, Roadhouse.
It's gay-popular, but is also a hit with
the straight crowd.
Applewood Inn & Restaurant
(13555 Highway 116; 707-869-9093 or
800-555-8509; www.applewoodinn.com; from
$195) is an upscale bed and breakfast
inn located on six lovely acres with
landscaped gardens and redwoods. Located
just one quarter of a mile from
Guerneville, the 19-room inn consists of
four buildings including a restaurant
(see below), wine bar, and wine cellar.
The grounds include a swimming pool and
hot tub. Room d�cor tastefully blends
contemporary furnishings with
hand-picked antiques. The best (and
priciest) rooms have fireplaces, private
balconies and Jacuzzi tubs or two-person
showers. Rates include full breakfast.
The pet-friendly 5 Seasons
Resort & Spa (formerly River
Village Resort & Spa, 14880 River Rd;
707-869-8139 or 888-342-2624;
www.5seasonsresorts.com; from $120) has
17 intimate, eco-friendly cottages and a
full-service spa offering aromatherapy
or wet salt massage, mud wrap and
facials on a four-acre site that offers
hiking and biking trails. Amenities
include: a pool, Jacuzzi, sumptuous
robes and towels, fireplace, cable TV,
DVD, CD player, complimentary breakfast
and kitchenette. The straight-owned but
very gay-friendly compound is set in
lush gardens.
The rustic and friendly
Highlands Resort (14000
Woodland Drive; 707-869-0333;
www.highlandsresort.com; from $60) sits
amid three acres of redwoods, and serves
a predominately gay and lesbian
clientele with 15 guest rooms, some
cabins with fireplaces, and a
clothing-optional pool and hot tub (day
use $3-$10). Resort accommodations don't
include TVs or telephones, and thus it
caters to a quieter clientele seeking to
"get away from it all." Continental
breakfast is served daily. Pets are
accepted in some cabins.
DAY ONE: THE RIVER RUNS THROUGH
IT
Your first stop has to be the River.
Many resorts offer river access. If
yours doesn't, you can pay a day-use fee
at another resort, or use public or
secluded beaches. The beach in
Guerneville is mostly straight but
gay-friendly, and it's popular with
families with children. Take a break
from sunning and splashing and saunter
to Main Street Station
Ristorante & Cabaret (16280
Main St; 707-869-0501;
www.mainststation.com; $8-20), for a
sandwich or salad.
Once suitably satiated, it's time to get
out on the water. Burke's Canoe
Trips (8600 River Rd,
Forestville; 707-887-1222;
www.burkescanoetrips.com) offers a
full-day rental for $58/canoe, including
paddles and life vests. Reservations
during summer months are a must.
Reservations are also essential for
dinner at Applewood Inn &
Restaurant (see above;
www.applewoodinn.com; $20-32), where
very good Wine Country and Italian
cuisine star on an � la carte
menu that changes every three weeks.
Gay-friendly, this restaurant attracts
more straight clients than gay clients,
in an approximate ratio of 80 percent to
20 percent.
While taking a moonlight stroll through
the woods followed by a soothing hot tub
under a starry sky is the primary
nightlife round these parts, there are
some other options. At the cruise bar
Rainbow Cattle Company
(16220 Main St; 707-869-0206;
www.queersteer.com) you'll find a mix of
gay women and men enjoying pinball,
pool, and music ranging from rock to
country & western.
DAY TWO: RISE ABOVE IT
Rise to new heights with a morning
champagne brunch hot air balloon flight
with Aerostat Adventures
(800-579-0183 or 707-433-3777;
www.aerostat-adventures.com). Private
charters are available. Talk about the
highlights of your trip so far as you
savor the pastas and pizzas on the patio
at Andorno's Pizza
(16205 First St; 707-869-0651; $8-$24).
It really is all about The River, so if
you're not staying at one of the bigger
resorts, such as the Triple R (see
above), ask the staff at your resort for
directions to Wohler Bridge.
It's popular with gay and lesbian
visitors and locals.
Follow the river to its delicious
conclusion at restaurant River's
End (11048 Highway 1, Jenner;
707-865-2484; www.ilovesunsets.com;
$17-$43), around 10 miles away from
Guerneville. Its wonderful ocean views,
where the Russian River meets the
Pacific, are worth the drive. A strong
local wine list adds to its attraction.
Once back in Guerneville, opt for a
romantic stroll or the more rambunctious
option of the Triple R resort's
remodeled Piano Bar
(16390 Fourth St.; 707-869-0691).
DAY THREE: NOT OUT OF THE WOODS
Start the day off with The
Roadhouse Restaurant's (at Dawn
Ranch Lodge, 16467 River Rd.;
707-869-0656 or 800-734-3371;
www.dawnranch.com; $9-$21) popular
weekend brunch, before picking up some
vital supplies. The sunny Russian River
area, around Guerneville, Monte Rio,
Jenner, Forestville, Graton and Duncan
Mills, boasts renowned artisan
cheesemakers and a vital farming
community, while fresh seafood is
whisked from the ocean along the
stunning coastline. Very much San
Francisco's larder, Sonoma County
provides Bay Area chefs with meat,
produce and other delicious tools of
their trade. Get a taste for the area
with a picnic, including cheese from
gay-owned and operated Sophie's
Cellars (20293 Highway 116,
Monte Rio; 707-865-1122;
www.sophiescellars.com).
Hit the trails through Armstrong
Redwoods State Reserve (enter
at end of Armstrong Woods Rd;
707-869-2015, 707-865-2391 or
877-444-6777;
www.parks.sonoma.net/Armstrng.html) and
work off brunch hiking among spectacular
old-growth redwoods, just five minutes
from downtown Guerneville. Once you've
worked up an appetite again, tuck into
your picnic among the impressive,
towering trees.
If you don't feel ready to come out of
the woods, call Armstrong Woods
Pack Station (17000 Armstrong
Woods Rd.; 707-887-2939;
www.redwoodhorses.com), a privately
owned horseback-riding stable, which
operates out of the state reserve. Laura
and Jonathan Ayers grew up on the
property and are dedicated naturalists,
well versed in the history of the area.
They offer a variety of rides, from
two-hour ambles to overnights. You must
make reservations by phone.
If you've done enough time in the trees,
there are a few nice stores in town
offering everything from clothing to
books and crystals. River Wolf
(14016 Armstrong Woods Rd.;
707-869-3449) offers unique gifts for
animals and animal lovers.
Russian River Floral Company
(16222 Main St.; 707-869-3343 or
800-260-7009) can meet any floral need.
The Guerneville 5 & 10
(16252 Main St.; 707869-3404;
www.guerneville5and10.com) is one of the
last five & dimes in California and
serves as a kind of general store to the
area. Et cetera Et cetera
(16270 Main St; 707-869-5808;
www.etcetcsales.com) features a great
selection of unique gifts and
accessories.
Grab a latte at Coffee Bazaar
(14045 Armstrong Woods Rd.;
707-869-9706), the local gay
coffeehouse, before sauntering along to
the Triple R Bar and Grill
(at the Russian River Resort; 16390
Fourth St.; 707-869-0672;
www.russianriverresort.com; $9-22) for
dinner. A women-popular option is
Wild Jane's (16440 4th
St.; 707-869-3600; www.wildjanes.com;
$9-$22), with an adults-only upstairs
lounge with a wood-burning stove,
perfect for a cocktail or full dinner.
Concerts and events often take place in
their main events room.
Finish off the visit with a few brews at
the mixed gay/straight sports bar
McT's Bull Pen (16246
First St; 707-869-3377;
www.mctsbullpen.com).